2021 Müller-Thurgau

Konrad (Konni) Buddrus & Evi Wehner make wine in the municipality of Laucha in Saale-Unstrut east of Leipzig under the logical name of Konni & Evi. This is the northernmost wine region in Germany and very far east compared to the more famous wine regions surrounding Moselle. Evi is a schoolteacher, and Konni works full time for a major commercial wine producer, so all work in the vineyards is done in their spare time. They bought their first plot in 2016, which Konni found for sale on eBay of all places. Today they own about three acres, mostly placed on steep terraces and all planted with old vines, some of which date back to 1912.

The work in the vineyard follows biodynamic principles and is extremely time consuming as mechanical devices are not seen as an option. In the cellar, the same uncompromising approach is evident: the grapes are pressed in a manual basket press without the use of pumps, as the wine is only moved by gravity. At the same time, all wines ferment spontaneously, just as fining and filtration are out of the picture, and sulphur is only added in very small amounts if considered necessary at all.

The wines of Konni & Evi are some of the most atypical German wines that we have tasted. They are incredibly vibrant, acidic and elegant and at the same time deeply serious with an enormous concentration. They are easy to drink fast, but patience is rewarded. Despite minimal to no addition of sulphur, the wines develop favourably over several days and often only show their full potential on the third day, completely open, crisp and utterly pure.